Posted by: TAL | 18/07/2010

Delhi and Beyond!

All the people who have been to India told me I was going to be in shock for at least two days after arriving to Delhi. Either these comments prepared me or my first big trip did, I don’t know what, but I must say I was not too shocked. I must say I even took to liking Delhi.

Don’t get me wrong, Delhi is filthy–the ground is a big trash can, the animals look like they’ve been hit by some bad disease and you stop and ask yourself how is it possible that they worship the cow when they treat them so poorly, the heat is beyond bearable, and the people, well, that’s a whole other story.

If you put all that aside and look at the magic that Delhi has to offer you might actually see something a bit different.  The Buddhist Mosques are so intricately designs with every attention paid to the small details, the people are beyond poor but still always smiling, the aroma of chai fills the air (if you are able to overcome the sewage odors that surround the ground), and the colors are so vibrant it makes you appreciate the delicate women who are wandering the streets.

So yes, Delhi is a must see sight for everyone, my words can’t even explain to you how disgusting it is, just writing about it my nose is filled with the disgusting smells, but I found something intriguing there–Their beliefs and their strong views about Karma. All Indians are believed to be born on some wealth level that they must be in peace with but one must always work on their Karma in order to climb up the latter..In their next life. You see the poorest of the poor buying food for the street pigeons, others putting cups of water out for the squirels. You see all this and you can’t even fathom the fact that they are content. How is it possible to be so poor and so happy?? As much as we can judge, we can also always learn.

Posted by: TAL | 17/07/2010

Here I am, India!

The road is still ahead of me.

As I head out of my home in Ra’anana, Israel at 4:30 AM I start realizing what’s happening–”DAMN, I’m on my way to India!!” But waittt a minute, don’t get ahead of yourself, Tal, the road is still very very long…I must: head to my friends’ house, get a ride from her father to Nazareth, take a bus to Amman, Jordan, pass the border safely, take a taxi to the airport, fly to Qatar and eat something quick, and finally get on my final flight to Delhi….at 3 AM.

Before the whole journey began, people were giving me crooked looks about my plans, “Why are you complicating yourself too much when a direct flight with El Al is only 200 dollars more?” Well, I like to think it’s for the adventure, others might think it’s plain stupidity!

So the way went smoothly, I got to see the other side of the Sea of Galilee, the locals in Amman, the nice developing city. I sat next to two Muslims wearing full kafia clothing including the head gear which at first kind of made me uncomfortable especially because even a hello I didn’t receive back from them. I must say though, that all in all what we hear in the news and what we see on television is very different from the truth. At the airport in Qatar there were people of all backgrounds, I felt like I was finally a part of the Middle East, traveling in my own region of the world. Qatar from the air is one of the most amazing spectaculars I have seen so far. The city looks like part Las Vegas part the board game Hotels but all is real, which is just incredible!Once we landed and walked down the stairs to Qatar land, I couldn’t help myself but feel the urge to go see the city but once I realized that the sweltering heat was not coming off of the back of the engine and that actually it is god damn hot in that country, I was happy to know I only had a short layover!

Although I thought that the smell once I got on the plain to India was my first shock, I was truely shocked when I got into the Main Bazaar area in Delhi where the streets were not only filled with garbage and bad odors but also a sea of human bodies getting a good night’s rest.

WOW, welcome to the land of plenty.

Posted by: TAL | 14/05/2010

It’s been almost a year since my trip came to an end and now as I sit and look back reading my blogs I realize, DAMN I did a lot!! I visited amazing countries, experienced different cultures, formed new relationships, heard interesting stories, and met friends that will stay with me for a lifetime!

Currently working for Lametayel, a backpackers/travelers’ store I look into the excited eyes of my clients and think of what it was like prior to my big trip. There eyes unexposed to the beauty of our world, their spirit waiting to burst out and feel free in a foreign land, and their hearts still don’t know all the joy they are about to feel. I am happy, I am happy that I can give feedback to many of the travelers and help influence them and make their trip peaceful and tranquil as possible. I try to give them all the tools they need to enjoy their trip to the fullest and to leave Israel with a clear head that’s ready to explore a new world.

To enjoy some of my stories, scroll through the page and even venture into the different countries listed on the bottom.

I was always a fan of getting off the beaten path so when I reached the town of Rurrenabaque in Bolivia, I knew just where to head.

Our jungle

Our jungle

I spent ten days in the Bolivian jungles with two of my traveling buddies Itay and Aviad who I have been traveling with for quite some time now. We decided to head out with a jungle agency called Mogli to the jungles just outside of Ixiama, a town in the middle of nowhere.  Our guides, Mogli and Ninja (no, these aren’t their real names, but if you knew them, you would understand why) took us to an area of the jungle that no tourists has ever been. The way is not paved and the way is not well known, only the sun and the river can lead us to Puerto Russo, a remote jungle village. Since we had only ten days to get there, we decided to build rafts and float along the river for as long as the water level would let us. It took us a day to build each raft, one for Mogli, Ninja and our backpacks and one for me and the boys.  We made the ‘equipment’ raft a lot more durable, made from balsa trees that we cut down with machetes and held together by nails that we made out of really strong palm trees. Our raft, a more generic type B raft was also built from balsa trees but held together by rope made out from the trees’ skin. As we rafted along the river trying to steer with our bamboo sticks, we managed to get stuck quite a lot only leaving us with the option to jump in the crocodile, pirana infested water. The two days on the raft were going great, we were starting to get the hang of the steering (it’s a lot harder than it looks!) and we were starting to enjoy the sun and the view of the wild jungle with a variety of animals popping out their heads every so often.  Things starting heading downhill once we stumbled across a huge tree that fell and blocked the whole river. Since we were unable to pull our rafts over we put on our backpacks, strapped on our hiking boots and off we went into the wild jungle leaving the rafts behind us. We walked for a long while until we tried to find a good place to camp for the night. Most nights we slept on the river bank in the sandy area since there were less mosquitoes than inside the trees and since it was more comfortable.

building our raft

building our raft


stripping down the balsa tree to make rope

stripping down the balsa tree to make rope


Mogli and Ninja on the raft we built

Mogli and Ninja on the raft we built

The next coming days were great, we would wake up each morning, have ninja cook us some breakfast while we made our bags and off we went walking and exploring the jungle, learning about the different trees, eating weird things and trying to avoid the mosquitoes who have no shame and bite ever through your clothes there! Every evening we found a different place to set up camp, cut down a few trees and made our home base for the evening.  We would sit around the campfire eating and enjoying each other’s company, playing card games or dice poker or going out looking for crocodiles and other animals.

every night we built a similar tent to this and slept inside mosquito nets while the guides slept in a tent

every night we built a similar tent to this and slept inside mosquito nets while the guides slept in a tent


A sad moment- leaving our rafts

A sad moment- leaving our rafts

These ten days were one of the cooler experiences I have ever had. I must say, I ate things like crocodile eggs, termites and worms that I don’t think I would have ever tried if it wasn’t for this experience. I learned a lot about natural medicine and all that nature has to offer–you can survive with nothing in this place.  I made some good and funny memories with my friends and made new friends with two great jungle men and I learned to make jewelry and a bow and arrow from trees and such.

Itay drinking from a water tree-a tree that will most likely become the new cancer medicine

Itay drinking from a water tree-a tree that will most likely become the new cancer medicine


me eating termites! yuck!

me eating termites! yuck!


Aviad eating coconut worms

Aviad eating coconut worms


Making a bow and arrow

Making a bow and arrow


What we looked like when we got back into society after ten days, wearing the same thing, living in the jungle

What we looked like when we got back into society after ten days, wearing the same thing, living in the jungle

White Water rafting has always been an adrenaline filled attraction in America. Rivers like the Snake River and the Colorado River are two of the more well-known rivers where one can enjoy a day in the crazy waters paddling their life away to try and get out of a rapid without falling in the water. Take the one day trip and turn it into three and you got the Apurimac River, one of the more beautiful but dangerous rivers to white water raft in.

The Apurimac River

The Apurimac River

After a short debate over which company we should use, we went on and booked our three days with Mayuc, a well established rafting company that many people recommended to us. The next morning we were up and ready at 8 in the morning, got on a bus and off we went. After about a four hour ride we arrived at our starting point on the Apurimac. This place is just gorgeous—set in a foresty area with large cliffs, the river sits in a basin alongside slick rocks that have eroded away over the years due to strong currents.

The first day was wonderful, some pretty calm rapids and other 3 and 4 rapids which were more adrenaline filled, especially when Itay fell in the water and we all tried to help him while our guide was yelling at us. At night we camped at a really nice yet mosquito filled beach called the Avocado beach. The food our guides cooked was delicious and definitely a lot more upscale than we ever expected due to the conditions.  The next morning we woke up bright and early, put the equipment back on the rafts and off we went for our longest day of rafting with some of the most intense rapids.  We passed through hard rapids, some that were graded high and others with a smaller grade but very technical. There were also a few rapids that nobody but the guides were allowed to do since too many deaths occurred in those exact rapids so we walked along the rocks while watching the guides maneuver their way through these treacherous rapids. In one of the rapids one of the equipment rafts got stuck flipped over in the middle of the rapid and it took all the guides about an hour to get the raft out so we lost a lot of time, but luckily it wasn’t our raft so we didn’t also have to deal with wet clothes for the night ;)

My raft-my friends-the trouble makers

My raft-my friends-the trouble makers

Our raft

Our raft

The guides were all really professional. With us we had two guides in kayaks, a photographer, and an equipment raft. It was quite clear that these guys knew what they were doing, every night when we arrived at the campsites, not only did we all set up tents, but the guides started cooking right away and making sure we were all happy. They set up a “bathroom” made from a huge plastic box with a toilet seat on top which they put far into the bamboo forest on both nights. Before walking towards the bathroom there was a paddle with a helmet on it to indicate the status. If the helmet was on the paddle it means it’s vacant, if the helmet is either on the ground or on the person’s head, it means occupied.

One of the more fun rapids-hardly see a raft!

One of the more fun rapids-hardly see a raft!

A paddling game we played on the downtime

A paddling game we played on the downtime

At night while we were sitting by the fire, my friends and I were all talking about how great this trip is and how no one should miss these three days if they get to Cusco. We also talked how we wished the trip lasted more like 5 or 6 days because really, you just can’t get enough.

Posted by: TAL | 04/08/2009

Check back tomorrow for some new stories!!

Now that I am back in the states I have both the time and the good internet to write a lot more of my stories  and my post trip thoughts and feelings!!

Posted by: TAL | 07/07/2009

¡¡¡GaLaPaGoS!!!

WOW WOW WOW is all I have to say! This place lived up every expectation I ever had about it!

Galapagos-Isla Española

Galapagos-Isla Española

After my parents and I spent a few fun and relaxing days in Quito we caught a flight to San Cristobal Island, one of the urban islands in the Galapagos. From there we were picked up by our crew and taken to our new humble abode for the next eight days– a large sized boat with 13 other guests and 6 crew memebers.

 

Throughout the 8 days we sailed around some of the most prestigious and beautiful islands that make up the Galapagos.  Every island is so varied, each having something else to offer from red footed booby birds, pelicans, swimming iguanas, sea lions, sea turtles, land turtoises, sally live foot crabs, galapagos hawk, and more.

Once stepping foot on any of the islands you realize just how important Darwin’s work is and how real and live it still is today! When you see in one island a prickly pear growing up due to predators and then going to another island and seeing the same plant grow sideways on the ground  you are just amazed and the concept of survival of the fittest.

yellow iguana

yellow iguana

Every day was spent walking around with our guides and getting fed important and interesting information, snorkeling, eating, and sleeping. The snorkeling and diving were two of my best highlights..Imagine you swimming in the water with a snorkeling mask on and boom, all of a sudden, sea lion! In your face! starting to play with you, jumping above you,  looking into your eyes and simply being the cute furry (smelly) curious animal you only got to see from afar in the Pier in San Francisco. We saw many other cool fish, sea turtles and many white tiped sharks.

Sea Lions on the beach

Sea Lions on the beach

What amazed me the most was the upkeeping and the awareness that the guides passed on to us. They are doing a great job keeping the Galapagos a clean healthy environment for animals and other species without having it be run by tourists, capitalism and the rest.  This trip is a memory I will cherish forever, who knows what will happen with those islands in the future.

Sea and cliff

Sea and cliff

Posted by: TAL | 02/07/2009

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

IMG_0970

The famous and incredible trail that was originally taken to get to Machu Picchu still holds all its fame. About three months ago my parents booked the trail since the demand is so high and a limited amount of people are allowed each day. The company we went through catered to all our needs, especially those of my father since he walks with a prosthetic leg.
Unlike all my past treks we had porters who actually carried all our stuff for us. I felt like a princess on this trek! I had a four person tent to myself with a hot bowl of water sitting outside my tent every evening and morning, our chef cooked us INCREDIBLE food, and I really mean some of the best food I ate in South America, and the walk was not too bad since I am used to carrying a lot more weight and I was well acclimated to the altitude.

 

Not many people get the opportunity to come to South America to experience this magic and even less people get to do the Inca Trail each day (the trail is limited to 500 people a day including porters and guides) so I must say I am very grateful for this incredible experience!

THroughout the trek there are many Inca Ruins and it’s just a nostalgic feeling better there knowing that over 500 years the Inca were living among these ruins and now I´m here walking on the same path they once built.

Entering Machu Picchu through the sun gate, where the Inca used to enter was one of the most breathtaking and speechless moments in my life. I just sat there in awe and no matter what I say, words will never express how I felt. The only thing that bothered me once in Machu Picchu was the fact that the porters and all the other local people are not allowed to enter which seems a bit odd and ironic to me as I watched all the Europeans taking pictures of the place. This is these people´s ancestors and even after5 long hard days walking with our stuff on their back   I couldn´t help but feel a bit of guilt that I get to enjoy this place while they stay outside mesmerized and mystified by what’s inside.

Posted by: TAL | 15/06/2009

Ah, Cusco, what a place!

Most of you might have heard of Cusco, also known as the Inca capital and one of the highest towns in Peru. I know that all of my trip in South America I have been hearing about this place so finally I got to check it out for myself.
As an Israeli I must say that I felt quite at home here since walking down the streets you hear, see, and know familiar faces from the homeland. After a long time in Bolivia, I was looking forward to getting to this place since I heard of all the people, the good parties, the plethora of outdoor activities and of course, all the Inca history.

Chola and children

Chola and children

I have to say that now after being here for quite sometime I have some mixed feelings about this place. In and around Cusco is just absolutely marvelous. So fascinating to see all the history dating back to the Inca about 500 years ago and how a lot of their monuments are still erect in the area. Their work is just mind boggling! You stand there uder a 20,000 ton rock perfectly placed like a puzzle ontop of another well chiseled rock, I mean, I just can’t put these feelings in words.  The city itself is gorgeous, with a lot of beautiful Spanish architecture that has mixed in well with the Inca ruins but the people, oh the people, are just plain annoying!! I usually don’t like judging, but when you walk down the street and all of a sudden a crowd of locals run up to you to try and get you to their restaurant, massage parlor, or tourist agency you just feel like swatting them like flies! Even right after they watch you leave a restaurant they willstill come and ask you if you like to dine in their ´great cuisine restaurant´I mean, haven’t they got any clue?? Are they not paying any attention that they saw me 5 minutes ago come out of a restaurant???

Inca Stones

Inca Stones

Ok, enough of that ranting and raving, back to the more interesting stuff…

I ran into a lot of people I knew through my travels here and after asking then when they got to Cusco and hearing their absurd answer of ´3 weeks ago!´I ask myself, why? What can you possibly do here for such a long time?!?! Well, some answered with the simple answer, ´nothing, just really good parties, I can’t get out of here!´while others listed a long list of fun activities they did.

From rafting, trekking, and horse riding, to sightseeing, history and the usual hanging out in the city, this place is full of things to do, and we tried to do it all!

Next blog: the Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu I did with my parents!

Stay tuned!!

Posted by: TAL | 30/05/2009

La Paz La Paz La Paz La PAZZZZZZ

When you enter any bus terminal in Bolivia, the first thing you notice is the amount of overweight, middle-aged women who hassle you and scream out the destinations of their bus companies..Of course, writing it doesn’t sound or seem half as exciting and funny as it does in real life, but I’ll try. Think of your cleaning ladies Spanish accent,okay?.. Got it? Ok, now, add a really high pitched voice and repeat the words ’La Paz’ four times, and on the last one, hold it for a good few seconds…I hope you got the gist, if not, next time you see me ask me about the cholas in the bus stations in Bolivia and I will gladly demonstrate it-with love.

After our last unwanted but much needed night in Cochabamba due to Ori’s salmonella illness and Maya’s robbing incident, we finally left the place and took a freezing cold overnight bus to La Paz, Bolivia’s second capital and also the highest capital in the world. 

We planned on doing a lot during this week since La Paz has so much to offer–bike down the ‘most dangerous road in the world,’ do the 3 day choro trek, hike a few mountains nearby, shop for cheap souvenirs for the family and ourselves, go to a few museums, go out to ‘crazy’ parties La Paz has to offer, sell bracelets in the streets, go atv-ing in Valle de la Luna, and more.    The week went by faster than expected and sooner rather than later I had to head out to Peru to go meet my parents…With Ori’s sickness we ended up spending a bit more time than expected at places we would have preferred to not visit in the first place. Put all that aside, we accomplished quite a lot.

biking: check

Death Road

Death Road

atv-ing: not in the moon valley but check

atv-ing in the sun valley

atv-ing in the sun valley

hiking: check

Tuni Condoriri Trek

Tuni Condoriri Trek

shopping: but of course, check.

Witches market...we didn't find anything here but llama fetus and witch craft

Witches market...we didn't find anything here but llama fetus and witch craft

sell bracelets to earn back some well earned money: not on the streets, but check.

some of my bracelets

some of my bracelets

go out to crazy parties: wellllllll more lame than crazy but again, check.

Hopefully after spending some time with my parents I can return to this lovely land of markets, cholas, and food in the streets to complete the last couple of things I didn’t get to do while in Bolivia, so stay tuned to hear about my return.

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